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Choosing the best shape and length for your paddle is a vague science at best. There are many criteria which could
affect any "standard" which people would like to set. Boat width, arm length, seat height, paddler height, and stroke rate are just a few of the considerations.
Experience is the best teacher, but I do have a few touchstones for helping you choose. |
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I feel getting the right shape is largely a matter of tuning the torque you receive from a paddle. Racers are concerned with
having the paddle "grip" the water well, and stick in it without "stirring the water". The theory is that if you are "stirring the water" you are wasting energy that
could otherwise be moving the boat forward. Of course, the solution for this is a huge blade which doesn't pull through the water at all, but blade weight then becomes a consideration.I see it more as a matter of torque and stroke rate. The blade shape and length of the paddle render a certain
amount of torque. If your body is analogous to a motor and pulling the boat is the work being done, then the paddle can be seen as a transmission of sorts. A paddle too small could be like being
stuck in first gear all the time -- with way too high of stroke rate going on. Racers seem to prefer slamming into third gear all the time so they still have leverage at higher speeds. Too little
torque for them would equal too high a stroke rate at the higher speeds they finally attain. That's why I like the Flo
blade for speed cruising and downriver racing. It delivers a nice steady stroke rate at high speeds. But at lower speeds, it's easy to end up with too much torque from your paddle. This can make it stick when you get into dynamic slabs of water at critical junctures in heavy water. You end up stuck on a protracted and useless brace which inhibits your body from applying a full range of motion (which would occur if the paddle would pull through the water some).
So I prefer "second and a half" gear for my torque level for most cruising and playing. This makes sure I have enough torque to hit really big strokes and braces (which DO pull through the
water to keep my shoulders from blowing out) but is also small enough to stay blade-light, with a nice stroke rate at normal hull speeds. I look for a torque range which barely "sticks"
at normal hull speeds but does pull through the water if I pull harder. This assures I can always pull my braces into strokes and my paddle will never "stick" uselessly in crux moves. I can
apply a fuller range of motion, and thus, a wider range of muscles to any big job I am doing with the paddle. The easiest way to learn the right torque level is to try different lengths of a blade shape
near what you are considering. Then base a decision off if the paddle is "sticking" too much or "wiffing" too much on big strokes. You can key off your stroke rate. The
ideal stroke rate is a bit quick but still with substantial resistance from the paddle. Too long a paddle will slow your strokes. This will certainly hurt you in a squirt or rodeo boat
because the blades become too involved in the "last" stroke and become hard to release for the next stroke. This is a key reason I build
releasability
into my shapes through the tight perimeters and efficient wing like cross sections. These factors also contribute to the smooth entry and exit of the blade on each stroke which helps them have that silky smooth feel.
Wood paddles CAN be readjusted for length after manufacture -- for a fee. So it isn't a "do or die" decision, but it's nice to get it very close right from the start. You
can adjust length and blade size to achieve the perfect torque. For most playing and cruising I prefer the smallest possible blade size -- for releasability and strength -- in the perfect
length. The perfect length I determine by the stroke rate I want. Everyone has different body sizes and preferences and so custom is the best way to go. |
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